Crowded place: Members of the Chinese community crowd the edge of the Kapuas River.Nothing that day could have stopped residents of Chinese descent from bathing in the Kapuas River, which runs through the city of Pontianak in West Kalimantan. Not even the scorching midday sun.
It was a special day for the ethnic Chinese, a day marked by a tradition known as u-shi (noon bath) which has been observed for thousands of years in mainland China.
Some of them went to the river by speedboat, others by small motorboat. Thousands ended up in the middle of the river, causing the river to get cloudy. Children, girls and women who didn’t dare to swim too far bathed at edges of the stream.
Many of the ritual bathers carried plastic bottles and jerrycans to collect u-shi water, which is believed to cure illnesses and bring good fortune.
U-shi is celebrated on the 5th day of the 5th month in the lunar calendar (June 6 this year). The ritual is sometimes called Tuan U Ciek or the double-five festival. It takes place from midday to 1 p.m., no later.
No one will bathe in the river after 1 p.m., as it is believed evil spirits are on the loose then.
“It could be terrible with evil spirits wandering around,” said Atien, 45, a woman from Siantan, North Pontianak.
It was a special day for the ethnic Chinese, a day marked by a tradition known as u-shi (noon bath) which has been observed for thousands of years in mainland China.
Some of them went to the river by speedboat, others by small motorboat. Thousands ended up in the middle of the river, causing the river to get cloudy. Children, girls and women who didn’t dare to swim too far bathed at edges of the stream.
Many of the ritual bathers carried plastic bottles and jerrycans to collect u-shi water, which is believed to cure illnesses and bring good fortune.
U-shi is celebrated on the 5th day of the 5th month in the lunar calendar (June 6 this year). The ritual is sometimes called Tuan U Ciek or the double-five festival. It takes place from midday to 1 p.m., no later.
No one will bathe in the river after 1 p.m., as it is believed evil spirits are on the loose then.
“It could be terrible with evil spirits wandering around,” said Atien, 45, a woman from Siantan, North Pontianak.
A time for self-reflection: The Chinese community of Pontianak bathes in the Kapuas River for u-shi, last Monday.The local Chinese believe the water taken during u-shi can be stored for a long time and remain clear as well as odorless.
Those who arrive too late to get clean water can obtain it from other bathers because everyone has to share on this special occasion.
Several Chinese laoya (psychics) or shin shang (traditional healers) use u-shi water to boil herbs for some cures. It is based on the belief that this water is more effective and blessed, thus ensuring a speedy recovery.
“I’m bathing with my family and relatives. We hired a speedboat to join the festival and also for fun, since [the ritual] only happens once a year,” said Atek, 50, a from Jeruju in West Pontianak.
Her family seemed happy, diving into the river from the boat.
Pontianak City council speaker Hartono Azas said he used to partake in u-shi as a child, and ate bak cang, sticky rice with seasoned fillings steamed in bamboo leaves, a delicacy typically served that day.
“I always bathed there when the [river] water was clear. Now I just take my children to watch the ritual. And I still eat bak cang at home,” said the ethnic Chinese Democratic Party politician.
Azas explained the ritual was an expression of gratitude to God for endowing people with good luck, health, safety and blessings. In addition, it serves as a means of self-reflection.
Those who arrive too late to get clean water can obtain it from other bathers because everyone has to share on this special occasion.
Several Chinese laoya (psychics) or shin shang (traditional healers) use u-shi water to boil herbs for some cures. It is based on the belief that this water is more effective and blessed, thus ensuring a speedy recovery.
“I’m bathing with my family and relatives. We hired a speedboat to join the festival and also for fun, since [the ritual] only happens once a year,” said Atek, 50, a from Jeruju in West Pontianak.
Her family seemed happy, diving into the river from the boat.
Pontianak City council speaker Hartono Azas said he used to partake in u-shi as a child, and ate bak cang, sticky rice with seasoned fillings steamed in bamboo leaves, a delicacy typically served that day.
“I always bathed there when the [river] water was clear. Now I just take my children to watch the ritual. And I still eat bak cang at home,” said the ethnic Chinese Democratic Party politician.
Azas explained the ritual was an expression of gratitude to God for endowing people with good luck, health, safety and blessings. In addition, it serves as a means of self-reflection.
Fearless: A man with a tattoo of a dragon on his back sits on the edge of the Kapuas River for u-shi.The chairman of the West Kalimantan’s Chinese Custom Assembly (MABT), Harso Utomo Suwito, described this tradition as a self-purification ritual. He hopes the government can one day use this practice to attract tourists to Pontianak.
In countries with ethnic Chinese majorities like Singapore, Hongkong, Taiwan and the PRC, the double-five festival is a public holiday. It is also a day to race dragon boats.
According to Chinese cultural expert Lie Sau Fat alias XF Asali, the ethnic Chinese community believes the u-shi bathing ritual brings about divine favor and security.
“All evil will be washed away by strong water currents,” said the senior observer.
In countries with ethnic Chinese majorities like Singapore, Hongkong, Taiwan and the PRC, the double-five festival is a public holiday. It is also a day to race dragon boats.
According to Chinese cultural expert Lie Sau Fat alias XF Asali, the ethnic Chinese community believes the u-shi bathing ritual brings about divine favor and security.
“All evil will be washed away by strong water currents,” said the senior observer.
Before bath time: Ethnic Chinese residents of Pontianak ride speedboats along the Kapuas River to celebrate u-shi.Asali also noted bathers were to reflect on their good and bad conduct during the ritual.
Prior to u-shi, local women usually prepare various kinds of dishes for a feast known as kwee cot or ko ciat, consisting of chicken, pork and duck, served with liquor.
The must-have cake is called bak cang or nyuk cung, which is made of steamed sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves and filled with either seasoned chopped pork, chicken, shrimp, ground nuts, mushrooms, or kenari nuts.
The vegetarian option is ki cang or ki cung, which is smaller and without filling. It is consumed with white or brown sugar syrup.
— Photos taken by JP/Tjhai Wi Tiang
Prior to u-shi, local women usually prepare various kinds of dishes for a feast known as kwee cot or ko ciat, consisting of chicken, pork and duck, served with liquor.
The must-have cake is called bak cang or nyuk cung, which is made of steamed sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves and filled with either seasoned chopped pork, chicken, shrimp, ground nuts, mushrooms, or kenari nuts.
The vegetarian option is ki cang or ki cung, which is smaller and without filling. It is consumed with white or brown sugar syrup.
— Photos taken by JP/Tjhai Wi Tiang
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U-shi ritual: A special bath
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