Ngaben: A Journey to Heaven

It was an invitation from a close friend and the blog contributor, SBoentaran, that enabled me to witness one of the most unforgettable ceremonies in Bali. The final chapter of balinese Hindu rites of passage, commonly known as ngaben or palebon. The cremation is meant to release the soul from all ties to the world and to return the remains of the deceased to its elements from which life was created.

As the cost of conducting the ritual is expensive, the last rite of passage for their love ones are commonly performed together among villagers from each banjar, a strong neighborhood communities group in Bali, and are usually conducted every 3-5 years. Only wealthy families will do their own cremation.

Lembu (water buffalo) is believed to be the vehicle of Çiwa God, the God of Gods. The colorful decorated paper mache figure of Lembu to be used by the deceased as a vehicle to bring the soul to eternity. It takes more than two weeks for the Balinese craftsmen to prepare one and costs around Rp.7 million each.

The procession started at the best time of the day, which was decided by the priest of the banjar. Children were given chances to participate in the procession as part of community education to prepare them for the future.

One of the strongest and most skilfull members of the family rides on the buffalo. It’s not an easy task, and sometimes is dangerous, as during the procession the buffalo will be shaken heavily and pushed around in its axis at a very high speed.

Each steps to the cremation site symbolizes something. A full circle at every intersections…..

A water spray from the river..currently done using firefighter’s truck.

Once arrived at the cremation site, the actual body of the deceased is inserted into the paper mache figures.

Each family has itw own paper mache figure and color, such as black, red, or white, with various figures ranging form water buffalo head to fish tail (if the family was of fishermen).

Family members circling the ready to be lit paper mache figures carrying the deceased belongings..

Unlike most funeral in throughout the world, cremation in not a sad event in Bali, tears are avoided with the believe that the spirit will leave happily. The ceremony is perceived as a celebration of the deceased’ life.

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